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  • Writer's pictureJess Bardin

Itinerant Guide to Dublin, Ireland: The Book of Kells

Dublin houses many historical treasures, ranging from Celtic torcs to Viking walls. Among the most famous of these is the Book of Kells, housed in the library of Trinity College. The library is itself a tourist attraction due to its beauty as well as because it's home to the harp of Brian Boru and the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic in addition to the famous Book of Kells.


the Long Hall of the Trinity College library in Dublin, which houses the Book of Kells

What Is the Book of Kells?


The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript, believed to have been created by Celtic monks around the 9th century. It contains the four Gospels of the New Testament, written in Latin, and is renowned for its intricate and colourful illustrations. The manuscript is named after the Abbey of Kells in County Meath, where it was kept for centuries before being moved to Trinity College Dublin for safekeeping.


History of the Book of Kells


The origins of the Book of Kells are somewhat mysterious, but it is believed to have been created by monks at a Columban monastery, possibly on the island of Iona, which was then part of the kingdom of Dalriada (modern-day Scotland). Following a Viking raid, the monks may have relocated to the Abbey of Kells in County Meath, Ireland, where the book was eventually named.


Why Is the Book of Kells so Important?


The Book of Kells is famous for its intricate and colourful illustrations. The manuscript features depictions of the Evangelists, Christ, and various abstract and animal motifs. The artistry is characterized by intricate interlace patterns, spirals, and geometric designs, reflecting both Christian symbolism and Celtic art traditions.


Viewing the Book of Kells at Trinity College's Old Library


Trinity College Dublin, founded in 1592, is Ireland's oldest university. Its library, home to the Book of Kells, is one of the most impressive libraries in the world. The Long Room, the main chamber of the Old Library, is an architectural marvel, stretching nearly 65 meters and housing over 200,000 of the library's oldest books. Seriously, see the photo above - it's a glorious library that I would be happy to live in if I could.



The Book of Kells Exhibition


The Book of Kells exhibition is a meticulously curated display that provides context and insight into the manuscript's creation and significance. The exhibition is divided into several sections, each exploring different aspects of the Book of Kells and its historical backdrop.


Viewing the Book of Kells


The highlight of the visit is the opportunity to see the Book of Kells itself. Displayed in a specially controlled environment to preserve its delicate pages, the manuscript is opened to a different page each day, allowing visitors to appreciate its beauty and craftsmanship. The vivid colours, intricate designs, and meticulous calligraphy are a testament to the skill and dedication of the monks who created it.


Note that this does mean you'll only be able to see one page on the day that you visit - repeat viewings might be in order if you're interested in seeing them all.


Where Is the Book of Kells?


The Book of Kells is housed at the Old Library of Trinity College in Dublin. You can get there by bus, tram, train, or car.



Bus


Several Dublin Bus routes stop near Trinity College. Key routes include 15, 16, 27, 39, 46A, and 145. The most convenient stops are on College Green, Nassau Street, and Pearse Street.


Tram (Luas)


  • Green Line: The Dawson Street stop is the closest LUAS stop to Trinity College, a short walk from the main entrance on College Green.

  • Red Line: If you're coming from the Red Line, you can transfer to the Green Line at Abbey Street or Jervis, or get off at the closest stop and walk.


Train


Pearse Station and Tara Street Station are the nearest DART stations, both within a 5-10 minute walk to Trinity College. These stations also serve commuter rail lines, providing easy access from the greater Dublin area.


Car


Parking in the city centre can be challenging. The nearest public car parks are Q-Park Setanta (off Molesworth Street) and Fleet Street Car Park (in Temple Bar). Limited and expensive, it's often better to use public transport or park further out and use park-and-ride facilities.


Tips for Visitors


  1. Arrive early: To avoid crowds, try to visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon.

  2. Take your time: The exhibition offers a wealth of information, so take your time to fully appreciate the displays.

  3. Photography: Photography is not allowed in the Book of Kells exhibition, but you can take pictures in the Long Room.

  4. Gift shop: Don’t forget to visit the gift shop, which offers a range of books, souvenirs, and replicas of the Book of Kells.



No Photos of the Book of Kells


It's important to note that you aren't allowed to take photographs of the Book of Kells itself. You can take as many as you'd like of the Old Library, the exhibition that showcases the history of the Book of Kells, and the gift shop, but not of the actual book.


Prolonged exposure to light, especially from camera flashes, can cause the pigments and inks to fade over time. Additionally, the exhibition space for the Book of Kells is carefully controlled to maintain optimal temperature, humidity, and light levels. Allowing photography could disrupt this controlled environment, potentially damaging the manuscript.


By prohibiting photography, Trinity College aims to protect and preserve the manuscript for future generations.


Conclusion


Whether you are an art enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveller, the manuscript offers a profound glimpse into the medieval world and Ireland’s rich heritage. The combination of the manuscript’s intricate beauty, the educational insights provided by the exhibition, and the breathtaking surroundings of the Long Room make it a must-see attraction when visiting Dublin. You may only get to see one page at a time, but that one page is astonishing.

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